Chiang Khong to Chiang Saen

What a beautiful 50 mile ride we had from Chiang Khong, following the Mekong northwest, to Chiang Saen. The scenery, looking across the river to the hills of Laos, is just magical.

Mekong River dividing the hills of Thailand from those of Laos

Before checking in to a well equipped rustic hut, just back from the riverbank, in the port town of Chiang Saen, we pedalled another 5 miles up river. This brought us to the point of The Golden Triangle; the confluence of the Mekong with the Ruak River where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet. The tortuous Ruak River forms much of Thailand’s northern border with Myanmar.

Rustic bungalow set in beautiful gardens at Chiang Saen

A significant drop temperature, to the mid twenties during the day, is much more pleasant to cycle in and provides for better sleep in cooler nights.

Kitchen on the motor bike sidecar

We are staying in Chiang Saen for a second night tonight, which paved the way for a more leisurely breakfast, some much needed bike cleaning and maintenance, a long conversation with fellow guests, the delightful Mr T and his son, from Bangkok and a cycle around local sites. A long walk up a steep hill with a modern Wat on top provided a spectacular view point over the river.

Chiang Saen to the left of the river
Fabulous ride Chiang Khong to Chiang Saen

Chiang Kham to Chiang Khong

Our 65 mile ride from Chiang Kham to the Riverside town of Chiang Khong was a straightforward blast up the main highway, sharing the wide shoulder with the odd moped. The traffic including freight trucks was fast but not too heavy; the noise got wearing after a while. However the bouganvillea plants flowering the length of the central reservation was pretty. The countryside is becoming evermore scenic as we head north, the hills of Thailand and Laos are covered in indigenous forests.

Laos hills in the distance

A temperature drop of about 10 degrees, together with a lot of cloud cover made the ride much more pleasurable and less tiring.

Chiang Khong is a sleepy border town directly across the Mekong River from Huay Xai; the Laos town from where we set off on our two day, slowboat, trip to Luang Prabang in 2014. We look right across to the little hotel we stayed in then from the balcony of our room in the best hotel we have stayed in. It has lovely staff, an infinity swimming pool and a comfortable bed!!

Sunrise over the Laos hills and Mekong River

We are spending two nights here in Chiang Khong and have so far had a lovely day just mooching about on our bikes as far as the fourth ‘Friendship’ Bridge that link Thailand and Laos along their mutual Mekong border. The bridge was opened in late 2013 and has now replaced the ferry that operated from the heart of town. As the bridge is about 8km downstream, the town has suffered from reduced through traffic.

We are sharing supper tonight with Geoff, an Australian national living in Seattle, who we met whilst on our mooch about. He is traveling in the opposite direction to us, on his first solo cycle tour so there will be much to talk about.

Song – Pong – Chiang Kham

Saturday’s 58 mile ride from Song to Pong included almost 900 metres of climbing, with two major hills. The only other traffic, on this very quiet road was a couple of Canadian cycle tourists. They came over for a chat as we were having an orange juice and breather at the top of the second climb. We were absolutely delighted to meet Chris and Heather, whose blog of their trip down the Mexican Baja inspired and informed our 2018 ride down the peninsula. They are spending 6 months riding around SE Asia, in part to escape the Canadian winter. Their description of cycling in South Korea has planted a seed! It was extraordinary meeting up, but maybe just proves that the long distance cycle touring community is quite small

Chris and Heather our Baja inspiration

The scenery, as we venture North and into the jungle like hills, is ever more scenic. The birdsong, especially during the magical early mornings before the sun is fully up, is wonderful, with many exotic sounds alien to our English ears.

Both Song and Pong are small towns where western faces are a curiosity, clearly not on the tourist trail. However, we have been made very welcome, from the owners of our various accommodations to street restaurant owners who have kept us in either chicken, pork or shrimp fried rice. Whilst there are small supermarkets in most sizable towns most food items, meat, fish, vegetables and fruit are sold in markets which start very early in the morning and go on well into the evening. The produce invariably looks very fresh, the fish are still flapping in most we have seen.

Market at Chiang Kham
Market at Chiang Kham

A short 33 mile north from Pong this morning has brought us to Chiang Kham, a larger busier town than either Song or Pong. Having arrived by 10.00 am we have had plenty of time to potter about, dodging the many young teenagers riding scooters home from school, many with at least one or two younger siblings or friends on the back. Almost none wear helmets.

Ninety four percent of the Thai population are Buddhist, almost every village has a highly decorated Wat (Temple). There are many in the larger towns. Wat Nantaran here in Chiang Kham dates back to the late 18th Centuary when Burmese teak traders lived here.

Wat Nantaran Chiang Kham
Wat – in the town of Phrae

Old Si Satchanalai to Phrae to Song

Two nights in Old Si Satchanalai provided respite from ‘route’ cycling and the opportunity to visit the Unesco World Heritage Park, just half a mile away, where there are many more ruins dating back to the 12th centuary. The remains of the temples are set in beautifully kept parklands, and are somewhat reminiscent of the relics at Ankor in Cambodia, but without the hordes of people and at £2.50 each for us and 25p per bike, the hefty entrance fee.

Way Phra Si Ratana Mahathat – Old Si Satchanalai

The skill of the craftsmen who built and decorated these enormous temples is truly awe inspiring.

The ‘day off’ as Gavin insists on calling the day cycling between the temples and exploring them on foot, in 30+ degrees, had to be ‘paid for’ with an 80 mile ride north to Phrae. A 5.45 am start required the use of lights but was essential to get miles in before the heat built. The early stages along the Yom river, through miles of freshly sprouting rice, was delightful. The water filled paddies glistened in the early morning sun with the growing seedlings a vibrant green five o’clock shadow where flocks of egrets and the occasional grey heron feast.

The second half, after the busy town of Uttaradit (breakfast stop with 36 miles done by 8.15 am) was less fun as we had to take a major highway; the traffic noise, heat and the biggest hill we have encountered so far were quite wearing, despite there being a reasonable shoulder most of the way. We arrived in Phrae; the old town is heavily influenced by Burmese carpentry skills, at 2pm and were very happy to chill at the delightful Phoomthai Garden Hotel. Sadly neither of us had the energy to take a dip in the pool just outside our room.

Phoomthai Garden Hotel – highly recommended. A Thai lady singing Carpenters songs, in English, in the restaurant was bizarre, she was surprisingly good though.

Having only 30 miles to do today (Saturday) allowed us a bit of a lie-in and a very nice breakfast. In contrast to yesterday, our route to Song was on minor roads winding through delightfully named villages and open farmland.

Rotovating the paddies, must be firm ground beneath the flooding

Prompiram to Si Satchanalai

What a joy; Kamoot, the bike mapping and navigation app we are using, has guided us through delightful, traditional villages in the agriculturally rich north central plain. The mapping is so detailed we can use older roads and paths which has the double benefit of avoiding faster traffic on the main roads and experiencing day to day Thai life.

A very wobbly suspension bridge over the river Yom – one of our ‘off the beaten track’ Kamoot discoveries
Early morning Water Buffalo Market

We had a magical overnight stop at Old Sukhothai, the ancient capital of Thailand, in an air-conditioned, comfortable cabin set in a garden of banana trees and lotus flowers. The very sweet lady owner could not have been more kind or helpful. We spent Tuesday afternoon cycling around the various ruins of the wealthy 12th-13th centuary Sukhothai civilisation that ruled the region. Devotion to their religion is clearly evident with Buddhas everywhere, from small representations to huge monuments.

Buddhas at Wat Saphan Hin, Old Sukhothai. Photo taken as we watched the sunrise over the old city

This morning (Wednesday) we cycled another 40 miles north, along the banks of the Yom river, where there is much water extraction to irrigate the largely horticultural crops grown alongside. We are now in Si Satchanalai, a satellite town from the 13th centuary, Sukhothai era. We intend to spend two nights here, for some rest, and to explore the many monuments in this UNESCO world heritage site.

Outside our air-conditioned, en-suite cabin at Sukhothai City Resort

Dan Sai to Prompiram Suannam

350 miles done. We are now out of the Luang Prabang Range of hills, and have entered the north central plain. We are spending tonight in a Golf Resort set within an oxbow of the Nam River, just west of Phitsanulok. Sunday’s ride from Dan Sai to Chattrakan was a game of two halves, the first half being very hilly but relatively quiet. After a stops for coffee in Nakon Thai and exchanging tales with 3 cycle tourists from Utah in the US, the roads became much busier. Generally drivers are very courteous and give us plenty of room.

Dan Sai – famous for masked rain-making ceremonies each June

Today (Monday) we were back on quiet rural roads where most of the traffic was either locals going about their business on mopeds or farmers busy with harvest, at one point herding several water buffalo cows and calves across the road. Thailand has a huge agriculture sector accounting for circa 10% of GDP, much of it centred here in the, very flat, North Central Plain. The fields are much bigger and mechanisation much more evident.

Beautifully decorated tractor lorries hauling rice grains from the combine harvester

We rode through acres of sugar cane, a significant amount of very healthy looking maize, banana and mango groves and a crop which appears to grow from ‘sticks’ planted in ridges – still trying to fathom what this is.

Water Buffalo having a wallow
Mid-ride snack sheltering from the sun amongst sugar cane

Chiang Khan to Dan Sai

All is going well, with early starts (13°c v 29°c by 11.00am) proving both essential for pleasant cycling and allowing us to experience the mellow colours and tranquility resulting from the dawning light.

Quiet roads and lovely scenery

Whilst the terrain has got more hilly in the Luang Prabang Range the climbs have not been too challenging, whilst allowing for exhilarating downhills and some fun rollercoasters.

From Chiang Khan we followed the Thai – Laos border along the Mekong and then the smaller Hueang river. Eventually heading south west, away from the border, just beyond the little town of Tha Li where we spent Friday night. A delightful young Thai couple, with a cute little cafe, cooked us a tasty chicken and fried rice dish followed by waffles with local bananas and chocolate sauce – yum. They were very interested in our journey but left us feeling very old with their astonishment that we could undertake such a trip at our age (the Thais have no qualms at asking how old we are).

Cow and calf grazing alongside the road

Most agricultural land is taken up with rice – typically three crops are grown each year, harvest is in full swing. Yesterday we watched as one farmer threshed the grains from the stalks by repeatedly beating the seed heads against the ground, back breaking work for hours in 30+degree heat. Today we passed a group feeding the sheaves into a threshing machine powered by the hydraulics on a small tractor. The chaff and ‘straw’ being blown into the air before landing in a big heap.

Mechanisation comes to the rice paddies. My Grandad had a mobile threshing machine (for corn), powered by his steam engine, in the 1920s
‘Towel Art’ in our room in Tha Li all for the princely sum of £15.41
Collecting sap from a rubber tree at one drip every three seconds