We made it to Land’s End, 1,295 miles pedaled since leaving San Diego. Truth be told, the first half of the fifty five mile ride from Santiago was great, riding across the Tropic of Cancer, through and down from the Sierra de Laguna mountains. The mountain and cactus scenery was enhanced by the clanking of bells around the necks of cows and goats as they grazed the roadsides.
Entering the outskirts of San Jose Del Cabo, after a quick pitstop at the airport to checkout our flight to Mexico City, things changed very rapidly. The sheer volume of traffic, exhaust fumes, noise and lack of a shoulder made the twenty odd miles to Cabo San Lucas, at the very end of the Peninsula, particularly unpleasant.
To cap it all, within sight of Los Arcos, the rocks at Land’s End, I sustained a huge snakebite puncture from some stones in the road. My rear tyre went from 60 (psi) to 0 in less than a nano second. The one and only puncture of the trip despite the cactus thorns, copious volumes of broken glass and litter and other debris.
After some R&R (rest and relaxation) we cycled into the resort town of Cabo San Lucas with the intention of getting right out to Land’s End. Two enormous US cruise ships were anchored off shore and the marina was choc-a-bloc with very expensive looking boats and yachts. Holiday makers, day trippers from the cruise ships and very many ex-pat and second home owning American and Canadians make this one of the most popular destinations in Mexico. Our mission to get right out to Land’s End was thwarted as access was along a beach reserved for the residents of a very swanky hotel.
Despite having reached the end of the Baja, we pedaled another fifty miles, north, along the Pacific coast to another former Mission town, Todos Santos, which grew up in the 1700s around a natural oasis. The first ten miles did little for our lungs or ears as we shared the road with constant traffic; a series of big climbs then a battle against a persistent headwind ensured we were very tired on arrival. The coast to our left and mountains to the right were very beautiful though.
Todos Santos is a delight, although a tourist destination, it retains an authentic charm with wide streets and leafy plazas. It is set in a bay with the most stunning white sandy beach; the best view of which is obtained from The Mirador Restaurant. This has one of the best locations in the world. It is accessed via a very steep and twisty dirt road, which proved a test of our riding skills. Ever the gentleman, Gavin offered to take a photograph for three American ladies en-route to celebrate a birthday. We got talking and before you could say ‘bob’ they had insisted we join them for lunch. What a delightful interlude; Leslea, Ginger and Karen (whose birthday it was) were so interesting and engaging. The three friends from Santa Fe, New Mexico, were on a ‘girls’ day out from Cabo San Lucas.
The food was delicious and our so generous hosts insisted that we had the seats facing the ocean view. Thank you ladies you made our day it was such a pleasure to meet you.